Braids are nothing new to Black women, but recently the most stylish Black women I know are wearing a particular style of cornrows unlike anything I’ve ever seen. These freestyle braids take the shape of mesmerizing twirls, swirls, and symbols that emulate hieroglyphic script hiding a celestial message. Unlike traditional cornrows that run straight back, freestyle braids follow patterns inspired by visuals like adornments on welded iron gates, stars, and Adinkra symbols (a pictorial language originating in West Africa). The style isn’t only taking off in my group chat: #Freestylebraids has over 83 million views on TikTok with videos of stylists across the world turning blown-out or curly Black hair into geometric works of art. Freestyle braids were even showcased at the recent Aveda Congress, where top hairstylists from around the world met to celebrate the year’s biggest hair trends.
Like many trends, it’s hard to pinpoint exactly when or from where this style originated. Black women have been braiding their hair in cornrows for centuries and, to my Nigerian-American eye, the freestyle braids are reminiscent of pre-colonial coiffures featured in anthropology books. “There’s a constant exchange between the African continent and its diaspora which can be explored through hair,” says Marie Celine Agossa who created the Instagram page Yua Hair, as a curated mood board of African hairstyles throughout history. As Allure previously reported, at the Aveda Congress, the brand’s global artistic director of texture, Renée Gadar, showed a collection of braids “as a tribute to centuries of stories passed down from generation to generation.” This included a freestyle look that featured more than 2,000 golden beads embellishments, floor-length braids arranged in a “roadmap,” and swooped cornrows to symbolize the waves that carried ships of people stolen from their homes. Popular African musicians — including Rema, Tyla, Amarae, and Ayra Starr — have been wearing iterations of freestyle braids like these, only furthering the trend’s explosion.
New York City-based braiders Helena Koudou and Rosemery Duran started getting requests for freestyle braids in 2021; in the two years since it’s become their most requested style. The style has gone from magazine photoshoots and concert stages to happy hours and casual weekend outings. People are flaunting their freshly braided freestyle cornrows like a streetwear crown that puts the wearer's individual style on obvious display. And while this style bridges the entire diaspora with the continent of Africa, it looks especially at home on the streets of New York City. “While it [freestyle braiding] does have traditional African cornrow inspiration, I think there’s a certain flyness to them that is very New York,” says Duran.
Some of Koudou’s more artistically inclined clients will come in with a sketched design for their freestyle braids but more often “people will come to me and say, ‘Just do whatever! I trust you,’” says Koudou. This style of braids turns a regular appointment from work into a creative outlet for the braider. “I’m literally just drawing with a comb,” says Koudou. “I might start off with a zig-zag and then the zig-zag will look cute with a swirl on the side.” Duran says some of her clients also share reference pictures for their desired look but ultimately she controls the layout.
With so much thought and precision involved, the appointments for these styles can last four to six hours or more, depending on the length and scale of the design.“We might talk for two hours first and plan the style, maybe have a little snack,” says Duran. She likes to form a relationship with each client, even following them on social media after the appointment. While the consultation might be chatty, Duran eventually goes silent when braiding, partially to help her focus but also because she enters into a “meditative, humming flow state.” “I reach this point where I connect with source energy, and I’m just going off of who is in front of me, who I am, the shape of their head, and their desires,” says Duran.
When it comes to the technique for freestyle braids, it's hard for the braiders to explain since it’s so artistic but Duran says using the right products goes a long way. For the cleanest parts when braiding, she always reaches for PureO Hair Solutions braiding gel. Since her patterns are unique to each client, the wear time of each head of braids can vary depending on the elements. “A large star or spiral shape may frizz up quicker than thinner braided sections,” says Duran. On average, however, these styles can last anywhere from four weeks to three months with proper care.
For maintenance, Duran recommends spraying the hair with a mixture of water and rosemary oil to refresh the scalp. If you’re not in the mood for mixing, the Camille Rose Rosemary Water Daily Strengthening Mist will do the job. Wrapping the hair at night with a silk scarf also helps extend the longevity of the style.
Freestyle braids are more than just a trendy look. For braiders, they’re an opportunity to tap into a new, often deeper level of creativity and skill. For the Black people who wear them, they offer a unique mode of self-expression that blends culture and tradition with modern style and individuality.
Discover more braid trends:
- Here’s Proof That Box Braids Are the Most Versatile Protective Style
- 7 Braided Hairstyles to Wear for the Ultimate Hot Girl Summer
- Raindrop Braids Are the Box Braid Upgrade You’ve Been Looking For
Now, watch Alia Bhatt's makeup routine:
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