One of the many joys of being a Black woman is wearing my hair in braids. I relish the chance to transform my curls into a plaited statement piece—and cut down on styling time for a few weeks. The multitude of braided protective styles available (like stitch cornrows, passion twists, Fulani braids, and boho braids) turn switching up your hairstyle into a choose-your-own-adventure game. But, for some, indulging in these hairstyles can come at a cost—and not just for your wallet.
If you ever notice that your scalp gets itchy or irritated shortly after getting a new set of braids, the culprit could be the type of braiding hair you use. Most of these protective styles require some sort of hair extension and the most common type of braiding hair used is Kanekalon: synthetic hair made of fibers, coated in chemicals, some of which have been linked to cancer. While quite convenient, cost-efficient, and nice to look at, this type of braiding hair can also lead to an allergic reaction, irritation, and hair loss for some users.
Yes, there are plenty of non-Kanekalon options on the market, but for a lot of us, the glossy look synthetic hair gives our braids (not to mention its lower price point) is too clutch to pass up. Luckily, there are some steps you can take—like proper cleansing—to reduce your risk of irritation if you’re not ready to give up synthetic hair for good. Ahead, experts explain all your options.
- Cynthia Johnson is a Baltimore-based cosmetic chemist and founder of Cindy J Cosmetic Labs, LLC.
- Zoë Indigo, MD, is a Los Angeles-based board-certified dermatologist.
- Brenda Johnson is a Chicago-based hairstylist.
What is traditional synthetic braiding hair made of?
Most of the synthetic braiding hair you find at the beauty supply store is made of acrylic or nylon fibers. The fibers are then coated in various chemicals so they resemble textured human hair that’s been stretched. “You have a lot of braiding hair that's coated with different types of silicone, which is a man-made polymer that helps reduce frizz and keeps the hair looking shiny,” says Baltimore-based cosmetic chemist Cynthia Johnson.
If your synthetic hair is considered Kanekelon hair, then you may be exposing yourself to vinyl chloride, which is the main ingredient used to keep the hair lightweight, soft, and natural-looking. Outside of the hair extension world, vinyl chloride is primarily used to make PVC for things like pipes and flooring. It’s also been classified as a carcinogen, with the largest risk being for people who frequently inhale the chemical’s fumes—like those who work in factories that produce vinyl chloride or PVC.
“The fact is that, since it’s not regulated, we don't know what's exactly in braiding hair,” says Los Angeles-based dermatologist Zoë Indigo, MD. “But what we do know is that one of the possible causes of scalp irritation is the coating.” Dr. Indigo notes that when the hair is heated, that coating can also release other chemical compounds, which could be cause for additional concern.
What are some possible risks of wearing synthetic braiding hair?
The main point of concern people experience with synthetic hair is the scalp irritation—and that irritation's side effects—it can cause. Dr. Indigo says that an allergic reaction (and the resulting inflammation) caused by any of the synthetic braiding hair's ingredients could lead to additional side effects, most notably hair loss. “Your hair is like grass, and if the soil is not right and it's not getting the nutrients it needs because of inflammation, then that grass is going to bounce,” says Dr. Indigo. The grass, in this case, could be your hair: Dr. Indigo says that irritation, if left unchecked, could contribute to a form of alopecia.
People have also speculated that synthetic braiding hair could be linked to cancer due to the use of vinyl chloride in the chemical coating of the hair. One study shows that toxic VOCs (volatile organic compounds) are emitted when synthetic hair is singed or heated at temperatures of 250°C and above. Inhaling these VOCs could theoretically create elevated health risks for both the braider and the braidee, though more research needs to be done for any risks of this magnitude to be stated definitively.
How to properly clean synthetic braiding before installing
Properly cleansing your braiding hair is the best way to prevent scalp irritation when using synthetic hair. All you need is an apple cider vinegar rinse, which Chicago-based hair stylist Brenda Johnson (no relation to Cynthia) says is a mixture that's two-thirds water and one-third ACV. You'll want to mix this up in a large bin or sink that's big enough for all your hair to fit in, then soak the synthetic braiding hair in the rinse for up to an hour.
This works better than using other cleansing products, like shampoo, because raw ACV (even when diluted with water) is an acetic acid, which can neutralize the alkaline properties the hair has due to the chemical coating, making it more compatible with your scalp’s natural pH. “The coating on braiding hair, like Kanekelon hair, has a high pH,” Cynthia, the cosmetic chemist, explains. Apple cider vinegar brings the pH of synthetic hair (usually between 9 and 11 after it's been processed) down to the range of natural human hair and skin (between 4.5 and 5.5).
You’ll want to give your hair its ACV bath a day or two before you plan to braid your hair since the hair needs to air dry fully, which can take up to 24 hours, before it’s installed. Be careful not to add too much ACV to your rinse as this can impact the quality of the hair—the sweet spot is that one-to-two ratio.
How to test synthetic braiding hair before committing
You likely consider factors like cost, convenience, and reputation when buying extensions. Dr. Indigo recommends adding a hair test to the process of choosing your braiding hair. This is advised even if you haven’t had issues with a specific brand in the past because, as Dr. Indigo explains, you can develop a new allergy at any time.
“When testing synthetic hair to see if you are allergic, I recommend taking a piece of the hair and literally rubbing it behind your ear or on your wrist. From there, you wait to see if your skin has a reaction to the fibers,” says Dr. Indigo, noting that an allergic reaction could take up to 48 hours to manifest. Many packs on shelves are hard to reseal so check your beauty supply store’s return policy if you plan to purchase a pack of hair to test. You can also ask the store if they have a sample of hair on display for you to touch before purchasing.
Alternatives for synthetic braiding hair
For those who find that they’re allergic to most synthetic braiding hair—or for whom the thought of cleaning it just sounds too tasking—there are increasing numbers of alternatives available. The most common types are 100 percent human hair and plant-based hair.
Brands like Rebundle and Lillian Augusta Beauty sell plant-based hair alternatives to Kanekalon. Dosso Beauty sells Kanekalon hair that’s already been cleansed and infused with jojoba oil, vitamin E, castor oil, and charcoal powder to help prevent irritation. (You’ll still want to do a patch test with all of these before installing them: As essential oils have proven, just because something is natural doesn’t mean it won’t cause a reaction.) Human hair brands like Indique Hair get their extensions straight from the source.
Plant-based and human hair is pricier than synthetic braiding hair (one pack of hair from Dosso Beauty is $10 compared to a $5 pack of X-pression Kanekalon hair on Amazon). The bright side is that, unlike Kanekalon, plant-based hair can be reused if properly maintained. Gently washing the hair with a mild shampoo and conditioner after each use can give you up to two to four uses. The same goes for human hair extensions, which are typically even more expensive; think $170-$200 on average for a pack of two bundles.
One downside of these alternatives to synthetic braiding hair is that you may spend more time at the salon when using them. Kanekalon hair is usually pre-stretched and tangle-free, making it easier to braid. Human hair, in particular, is often not pre-stretched, which adds another task for your braider.
Another con of using human braiding hair is that you may start to see frizz sooner than you’d like, depending on the brand. With synthetic hair, the chemical coating reduces frizz, making your style look neater for longer.
If you’re really tied to the look and ease of synthetic braiding hair, consider braid styles that don’t require the hair to lay directly on your scalp, like knotless braids. When installing knotless braids, your stylist will usually start by braiding about ¾ of an inch of your natural hair before adding in the synthetic extensions. “That's a better style than getting the actual fiber wrapped around your hair like with other styles such as box braids,” says Brenda. This won’t completely eliminate the risk of irritation as the braids can still touch your scalp in different styles like a ponytail but it’s better than styles that require the synthetic hair to touch your scalp at the root of your hair.
If scalp irritation persists even after washing your synthetic hair or trying plant-based or human hair extensions, the issue could have more to do with prolonged tension on the scalp and less to do with the actual type of hair. Either way, it’s important to “let your hair breathe,” as they say, and avoid getting protective styles back to back.
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